Stretch-mascara

ABSTRACT

The invention relates to a novel cosmetic product with special flexibility and stretching characteristics, so-called “stretch-mascara”. The mascara has an oil phase and an aqueous phase, said oil phase containing 2 to 10 wt. % of an unbranched polyethylene wax with a molecular weight of 400 to 1500 Dalton, in relation to the weight of the oil phase, and at least one other wax or oil or mixture thereof. The aqueous phase contains 0.5 to 5% of a film former PVP/PVP-VA, polyquaternium-46 and mixtures thereof. The product also contains 0.5 to 20 wt. % of an external film former phase with a water-soluble film former selected from the group PEG/PPG-25/25 dimethicone/carylates/t-butyl acrylates copolymer, polyurethane-1 and mixtures thereof.

CROSS REFERENCE TO RELATED APPLICATION

This application is a national stage of PCT/EP01/11504 filed Oct. 5,2001 and based upon DE 100 53 052.4 filed October 13, 2000 under theInternational Convention.

BACKGROUND OF THE INVENTION

1. Field of the Invention

The present invention relates to a novel cosmetic product called“stretch mascara” having special stretching features.

2. Description of the Related Art

WO99/22711 discloses a waterproof mascara compound based on a styreneethylene propylene copolymer basis acting as a jelling agent and inwhich, among others, polyethylene wax can be used as film-forming agent.It is possible to obtain mascara compounds having the usual viscosityvalues of approximately 1,500,000 Pa·s (cP).

SUMMARY OF THE INVENTION

It is an object of the present invention to provide mascara compoundshaving lower viscosity values and an excellent extensibility to be usedas mascara to be applied to the eyelashes.

DETAILED DESCRIPTION OF THE INVENTION

According to the present invention, the novel stretch mascara based onan oil phase and an aqueous phase, wherein

-   a) the oil phase comprises 2 to 10% by weight, related to the weight    of the oil phase, an unbranched polyethylene having a molecular    weight distribution ranging between 400 and 1,500 Dalton, and at    least one further oil or wax or mixture thereof;-   b) the water phase comprises 0.5 to 5% by weight of a film-forming    agent for the water phase selected from the group consisting of    PVP/PVP-VA, Vinylcaprolactam/Vinylpyrrolidon/quaternized    Vinylimidazol (Polyquaternium-46) and mixtures thereof, where the %    by weights are related to the total weight of the mascara;-   c) additionally 0.5 to 20% by weight of an external phase of a    film-forming agent comprising a water soluble film-forming agent    selected from the group consisting of PEG/PPG-25/25    Dimethicone/-Acrylates/t-Butyl Acrylates Copolymer, Polyurethane-1    and mixtures thereof, where the % by weights are related to the    total weight of the mascara; and-   d) further cosmetic pigments, carriers and auxiliary substances by    100% by weight.

The oil phase may further comprise natural waxes, other synthetic waxes,emollients, higher C₁₂–C₂₀ fatty acid esters, emulsifying agents,protective agents and mixtures thereof. The share of the oil phaseranges between 10 and 40 weight percent, related to the weight of themascara.

In the oil phase the unbranched polyethylene is contained with amolecular distribution of 400 to 1,500 Dalton, preferably with amolecular weight of 400 to 600 Dalton to receive a special flexibleproduct by that. The polyethylene has a melting point of 75–99° C. and apenetration value of 5–15 dyn/mm at 25° C.

The measurement of the penetration value takes place with apenetrometer, eg. Lab-Line #4101, manufactured by Lab-Line InstrumentsInc., USA, needle D1321. A sample is heated to its pouring temperature,poured in a eight-ounce jar filled to the shoulder of the jar andcovered, and allowed to cool for 12–24 hours in a controlled environmentat 20° C. After that the cover is peeled off from the jar andmeasurements be taken.

The needle is mounted in the penetrometer head, a required weight, ifneeded, is added to the loading bar and the measuring head is lowered sothat the tip of the needle touches the surface of the sample. After thatthe plunger is released gently and the cone let be penetrated the samplefor 5 sec. Then the measured value is read. Four values are taken fromdifferent places of the sample and reported as an average.

The penetration value ranging between 5 and 15 dyn/mm at 25° C. reflectsthe flexibility and softness of this wax.

The other waxes are preferably selected among candelilla wax, beeswax,stearic acid, glyceryl monostearate and mixtures thereof. Theparticularly preferred ranges are 1 to 6 weight percent of candelillawax, 1–17 weight percent of beeswax, 3–8 weight percent of stearic acid,1–5 weight percent of glyceryl monostearate. Other waxes might be usedas well, such as carnauba wax, wool wax, hardened paraffin, ceresinewax, ozokerite, silicon and mixtures thereof.

The share of polyethylene is 2 to 10 weight percent relative to theshare of the oil phase.

A particularly preferable polyethylene is Perfomalene 400® (New PhaseTechnology, Piscataway, N.J., USA) which does not contain any branchesand therefore is a very flexible polyethylene.

Another preferred feature of the present invention is that the oil phasehas a total penetration value of 5–20 dyn/mm at 25° C. This means thatthe mixture of polyethylene, other waxes, esters, emulsifying agents,etc. existing in most cases in the oil phase has a penetration valuewithin the aforementioned range.

Emulsifying agents to be used are for example sorbitan fatty acid ester,esters of C₁₂–C₂₂ fatty acids and glycerin, polyglycerin,pentaerythrite, sugar alcohols (e.g. sorbite), polyglucosides (e.g.cellulose); polyalkylene glycols; wool wax alcohols. Preferably, 0.2 to2 weight percent of sorbitan oleate are used.

The external film-forming agents polyurethane-1 or PEG/PPG-25/25dimethicone/acrylates copoloymer (Luviflex Silk®) or a mixture of bothsubstances are normally used almost exclusively in hairsprays only. Inthe present case, the terpolymer film-forming agent comprisingt-butylacrylate, methacrylic acid and dimethicone copolyol is present ina preferred share of 0.5 to 10 weight percent relative to the totalweight of the mascara compound.

Preferably, the aqueous phase of the mascara according to the presentinvention comprises a film-forming agent too, which is particularlyselected among PVP/PVP-VA, vinyl caprolactame/vinylpyrrolidon/quaternized vinylimidazol (Polyquaternium-46) and mixturesthereof. The aqueous phase may further contain thickeners, hydroxy ethylcellulose, neutralization agents, and triethanolamine.

Further, the stretch mascara comprises organic and inorganic pigments,pigment mixtures or powders having a pigment-like effect includingpowders having a pearl-gloss effect. These may comprise, for example,iron oxides, natural aluminum silicates such as ochre, titanium dioxide,mica, kaolin, manganese-containing clays such as umbra and red bolus,calcium carbonate, talc, mica/titanium oxide, mica/titanium oxide/ironoxide and mixtures thereof. The percentage share of the dying pigmentsor mixtures thereof may range from 7 to 15 weight percent.

Other preferred components of the stretch mascara according to thepresent invention are hair conditioning agents such as vitamin E orvitamin E-acetate ranging from 0.1 to 2 weight percent and/or panthenolranging from 0.1 to 1.2 weight percent. As a particularly preferredadditive the mascara may comprise 0.1 to 4 weight percent of an aqueousextract of the rhodophycea alga providing for an improved effectivenesswith regard to the stability of hair and the improvement of a naturalappearance.

Anti-oxidants such as vitamin C and derivatives thereof, such asascorbyl acetate, ascorbyl phosphate and ascorbyl palmitate; vitamin Aand derivatives thereof; folic acid and derivatives thereof; vitamin Eand derivatives thereof such as tocopheryl acetate; flavones orflavonoids; amino acids such as histidine, glycine, tyrosine,tryptophane and derivatives thereof; carotinoids and carotines may becontained therein as well.

The addition of UV filters soluble in water or oil, i.e. UVA or UVBfilters or both, is advantageous. Preferred UVB filters soluble in oilinclude 4-aminobenzoic acid derivates such as 4-(dimethylamino) benzoicacid (2-ethylhexyl) ester; esters of cinnamic acid such as 4-methoxycinnamic acid (2-ethylhexyl) ester, benzophenone derivates such as2-hydroxy 4-methoxyben-zophenone; 3-benzylidene camphor derivates suchas 3-benzylidene camphor. Preferred UV filters soluble in oil arebenzophenone-3, butyl methoxybenzoyl methane, octyl methoxycinnamate,octyl salicylate, 4-methyl benzylidene camphor, homosalate and octyldimethyl PABA.

It is preferably to add humectants such as Propylene Glycol, ButyleneGlycol, Glycerin or mixtures thereof.

The addition of emollients such as Panthenol is preferred, e.g. in aconcentration of 0.1-1 weight %. Also other emollients are useful suchas stearates or palmitates.

Generally and in contrast to common mascara compounds offered in themarket, the specific polyethylene and the combination of internal andexternal film-forming agents bring about a considerable “stretching”effect after applying the compound. This stretching effect on theeyelashes results in a significantly prolonged durability and anexcellent contact with the underlying hair. Further, curling of theeyelashes is facilitated so that the eyelashes appear to be longer andmore voluminous. The compound can be applied in a smudge-proof andflake-proof manner and remains in this state. No sticking of theeyelashes occurs, and pigments can be distributed very well in theemulsion and thus on the eyelashes too.

The mascara can be removed easily by using water and soap.

Another advantageous feature of the stretch mascara according to thepresent invention is that its viscosity ranges from 50,000 to 500,000Pa·s (cP) measured according to the Brookfield method using spindlesTC/TD/TE at 25° C. and in the range of 50–75% of the spindle speed. Apreferred viscosity range is 140.000 to 350.000 Pa·s.

Due to this low viscosity compared with prior art products having aviscosity of approx. 1,500,000 Pa·s (cP), the mascara is of creamyconsistency, can be stored in this consistency considerably longer thanconventional products and further has a significantly longer consumptionlife after being opened the package and used by the consumer.

The invention further relates to a method for manufacturing a stretchmascara, which comprises that after mixing the oil and water phases anexternal film-forming phase is added where PEG/PPG-25/25Dimethicone/Acrylates/t-Butyl Acrylates Copolymer is added in smallportions at 40–76° C., preferred 70–76° C. Only by that processing it ispossible to avoid a strong viscosity increasing and a gum-like characterof the mixture.

Now, the present invention will be further explained by examples. Unlessspecified otherwise, all data are given as weight percent.

Examples 1–4: Mascara 1–VI 1 2 3 4 Polyethylene 1.2 0.5 2 3 Candelillawax (Euphorbia cerifera) 2.4 3 1 4 Stearic acid 5.5 4.6 4 5 Glycerylmonostearate 3.5 3 3 3.3 Beeswax 2.7 3 2 4 Sorbitan Sesquioleate 0.6 0.60.4 0.4 Polybutene 0.3 0.1 0.5 — Propylparaben 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.3Hydroxyethyl cellulose 0.3 0.5 0.2 0.5 PVP (Polyquaterniuin-46) 2.5 2.73 3.1 Triethanolamine 1.1 1.5 0.8 1 Black Iron Oxide 12 13 11 5 Water ad100 ad 100 ad 100 ad 100 Cellulose 1 0 2 — Polyurethane-1 8 9 13 15PEG/PPG-25/25 Dimeticone/ acrylates/t-butyl acrylates (Luviflex″Silk)1.2 2 1 1.8 Methylparaben 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.4 Tocopheryl Acetate 0.2 0.5 10.5 Panthenol 50% AQ. 0.2 1 0.7 0.6 Bioextender/Water hydrolyzedRhodyphycea extract 0.4 0.8 1.7 — Phenonip (Paraben mixture) 0.3 0.2 0.30.3

The polyethylene used has the following parameters in examples 1, 2 and3: Molecular weight 500, melting point 88° C., penetration value 7. Inexample 4: MW 400, Mp. 79.5° C., penetration value 15.

At first all waxes, stearic acid, polyethylene, polybutylene, sorbitansesquioleate and propylparaben are heated to about 95° C. and stirred toreceive a clear liquid. Separately water is heated and the cellulose isadded. The temperature of the watery phase is raised to about 65° C. andPVP, black iron oxide and methyl paraben is added during mixing. At 85°C. the oily phase is added to the watery phase during mixing forreceiving an emulsion. After that Luviflex Silk® is added at 74–76° C.and in small portions under stirring to avoid a gum-type mixture.Further after addition of Polyurethane-1 at about 65° C. and furtherdecreasing the temperature to about 45° C. the remaining components areadded. The mixture is homogenized to receive a creamy consistence of thefinal product.

1. A stretch mascara containing an oil phase and an aqueous phase, whichcomprises a) the oil phase comprises 2 to 10% by weight, based on thetotal weight of the oil phase, of an unbranched polyethylene having amolecular weight distribution ranging between 400 and 1,500 Dalton, andfurther comprising at least one oil or wax or mixture thereof; b) theaqueous phase comprises 0.5 to 5% by weight, based on the total weightof the mascara, of a film-forming agent for the aqueous phase selectedfrom the group consisting of PVP/PVP-VA,vinylcaprolactam/vinylpyrrolidone/quaternized vinylimidazole andmixtures thereof; c) additionally 0.5 to 20% by weight, based on thetotal weight of the mascara, of an external phase of a film-formingagent comprising a water soluble film-forming agent selected from thegroup consisting of PEG/PPG-25/25 dimethicone/acrylates/t-butylacrylates copolymer, polyurethane-1 and mixtures thereof; and d) furthercosmetic pigments, carriers and auxiliary substances to make 100% byweight.
 2. The stretch mascara according to claim 1, wherein the oilphase has a needle penetration value in the range of 5–20 dyn/mm at 25°C.
 3. The stretch mascara according to claim 1, wherein the unbranchedpolyethylene has a molecular weight distribution ranging between 400 and600 Dalton.
 4. The stretch mascara according to claim 1, wherein the oilphase further comprises natural waxes, synthetic waxes, emollients,higher C₁₂–C₂₀ fatty acid esters, emulsifying agents, protective agentsand mixtures thereof.
 5. The stretch mascara according to claim 4,wherein the waxes are selected among candelilla wax, beeswax, stearicacid, glyceryl monostearate and mixtures thereof.
 6. The stretch mascaraaccording to claim 1, wherein the the oil phase is 10 to 40 weightpercent relative to the total weight of the mascara.
 7. The stretchmascara according to claim 1, wherein the PEG/PPG-25/25dimethicone/acrylates/t-butyl acrylates copolymer is 0.5 to 10 weightpercent relative to the total weight of the mascara.
 8. The stretchmascara according to claim 1, wherein the aqueous phase comprises anaqueous extract of the rhodophycea algae.
 9. The stretch mascaraaccording to claim 1, wherein said stretch mascara has a viscosityranging from 50,000 to 500.000 Pa·s, measured according to theBrookfield method using spindles TC/TD/TE at 25° C.
 10. A method formanufacturing a stretch mascara, which comprises (a) mixing an oil phaseand an a an aqueous phase, wherein said oil phase comprises 2 to 10% byweight, based on the total weight of the oil phase, of an unbranchedpolyethylene having a molecular weight distribution ranging between 400and 1,500 Dalton, and further comprising at least one oil or wax ormixture thereof; wherein the aqueous phase comprises 0.5 to 5% byweight, based on the total weight of the mascara, of a film-formingagent for the aqueous phase selected from the group consisting ofPVP/PVP-VA, Vinylcaprolactam/Vinylpyrrolidone/quaternized Vinylimidazoleand mixtures thereof; (b) after step (a), adding an externalfilm-forming phase, comprising adding PEG/PPG-25/25dimethicone/acrylates/t-butyl acrylates copolymer in small portions at40–76° C.